Elegant Armor: jewelry innovations in the Museum of Arts and Design

On September 27, the New York Museum of Arts and Design opened the exhibition of modern jewelry art Elegant Armor: The Art of Jewelry. Organized under auspices of the fund of Tiffany & Co. Foundation the exhibition aimed to show the best achievements of jewelry art of the late 20th century and to reflect the basic trends of development of jewelry design. The exposition included over 130 works selected from funds of the museum which has one of the largest for today collection of modern jewelry art.

The large section comprises works by the artists of “sculptural forms”: Gijs Bakker, Emmy van Leersum, Linda MacNeil and many others. Appreciating the art and aesthetic self-sufficiency of jewelry they deserted with traditions of modernist style and Art Nuevo having started to experiment in search of new media and ways of artistic expressiveness. Many of them turned to minimalism, others to biomorphous forms or started to work with principles of architectural sculpture and kinetic art. But all these different methods are combined with a general idea of jewelry as self-valuable work.

Other represented works at the exhibition were the result of development of ideas of postmodernism and new materials and technologies in jewelry. The exhibition displays bright, scandalous works by celebrated American artist Mary Ann Scherr. She used the elements of medical equipment in her jewelry. The exposition also includes surrealistic works by Danielle Kerner who used the technologies of laser in processing of materials. There is also jewelry by German artist and designer Otto Künzli among which is the classic object of jewelry ornament of postmodernism – a bracelet Gold Dazzles in a form of a massive gold sphere soldered in a black rubber hose.

“From the moment of its foundation in 1956 the museum paid particular attention to modern jewelry art, – the curator of the exhibition Ursula Ilse-Neuman comments. – Our new exposition including the best works aims to show the whole urgency of this interesting phenomenon. The exhibition examines the whole range of concepts, materials and technologies which make a modern ornament one of the impressive and most finished artistic forms”.

The exhibition is opened till May 31, 2009.

Published in: on November 18, 2008 at 9:10 am  Leave a Comment  
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